I spent a chapter of my life in Florence, living in a small apartment in the Santa Croce area. It was a time when I had no idea what carbs were, when I looked like a curvy Renaissance model, and when I drank wine as if there was no tomorrow.
In this blog post I share with you my hidden and not so hidden gems. You will find a list of my favourite restaurants, bars and gelaterias. Whether you are looking for a gelato that melts your heart, a quiet rooftop bar with an incredible view, an authentic Italian meal that feels like made by someone’s grandmother, or a fancy dinner out; I got you covered.
The mentioned locations are clickable and linked to Google Maps, which allows you to get information about each place. By clicking on the link you will get a pop-up and you will get information as the address, opening times, website and phone numbers. The pictures in this post are taken with my very much loved Sony Cybershot point-and-shoot camera and my prehistoric Blackberry 😀
Coffee: To Start the Day
Do it the proper Italian way; stand at the counter, order a shot of espresso (in Italian; un caffè), and sip it in one go. It’s delicious and was one of my favourite things to do in the morning while practising my Italian language skills.
Caffè Michelangiolo The baristas here dedicated time to learn their craft as the coffees are delicious. Disclaimer; I noticed that the staff is more friendly when you speak Italian. Therefore, repeat after me; Un caffè, per favore [un kafˈfɛ per faˈvoːre].
Don’t worry, there are plenty of good coffee shops in the city. The one I frequently visited near the Santa Croce church is closed but luckily there are plenty of other good ones. You will be surprised how affordable these shots of coffee are! They are usually between 1 Euro or 1.50 Euro.
Gelato: Flavoured Frozen Clouds
No trip to Florence is complete without gelato. The ice cream places around the Duomo are charging triple the price as the ones I mentioned below and the portions and flavours aren’t that great. Therefore make sure to visit these hidden gems.
Gelateria dei Neri (1). The pistachio at Gelateria dei Neri is my favourite! I also love their mango flavour, especially combined with coconut. The gelateria is located on a street just a few minutes from Piazza della Signoria, where you will find Palazzo Vecchio, the Uffizi and the Gucci Museum.
La Carraia (2) has two locations – one near the Santa Croce square and the another one in Santo Spirito. The one near Santa Croce has a nice small seating area outside. Try the Ricotta Cheese with Pear.
Lunch: Authentic Italian
All’Antico Vinaio (3) is unfortunately no secret anymore. They use to have a big wine assortment, but a couple of years ago they slightly changed their concept to something what is more like a sandwich shop. They have expanded last years and have several stores now, but this location is the original one. Despite of the changes, the quality remains good, and therefore it can’t miss on my recommendations list! At this place you get crusty bread stuffed with creamy cheeses, truffle spreads and sliced meats. The line is long but it is worth it. I recommend to skip breakfast and go early.
Gustapanino (4) is a hidden gem on the other side of the Arno, located at the Santo Spirito square. It’s the kind of place where time slows down, and you feel like you have stepped into an Italian grandmother’s kitchen. They serve sandwiches, salads or pasta. Sit outside, sip on a glass of something and let the world pass by.
Dinner: Classic, Cozy or a Little Fancy
Trattoria Style
Gusto Leo (5) is the place for simple, delicious Italian food that won’t cost a fortune. I still remember their panna cotta dessert and remember that evening when I ate two of them. So yummy!
Trattoria La Casalinga (6) feels like home. Wooden tables, friendly people and food that tastes like it’s been passed on and perfected over generations.
For a Special Night Out
Il Santo Bevitore (7) is where you go when you want a night out in a restaurant. The ambiance is intimate, the wine list is excellent, and the dishes are crafted with precision. Don’t forget to make a reservation and to dress up!
Pizza: A Slice of Perfection
Gustapizza (8) is my favourite place for pizza. You can’t reserve and you might end up sharing a table with strangers (which is all part of the experience). Consider to take your pizza for takeaway to the Santo Spirito square or to my secret sunset place (DM me on Instagram or email me for exact coordinates).
Drinks: Where to Sip
Aperitivo
Soul Kitchen (9) has a relaxed vibe and a small but delicious buffet in their basement. Order a spritz and grap a plate to collect your favourite food.
Fancy
Giacosa 1815 (10) is where the Negroni was invented. The negroni is a cocktail, made of equal parts gin, vermouth rosso, and Campari. It is served on the rocks and garnished with an orange slice or orange peel. If you love this cocktail, you would be happy to go here!
Angel Roofbar & Dining (11) This rooftop bar offers panoramic views of the city, making it a perfect place to calm down with a drink in your hand. The atmosphere is classy and relaxed.
Alternative
Blob (12) Getting there feels like finding your way through a labyrinth, but once you do it’s worth it. It’s the tiniest club I have ever been to. But also one of the most fun ones! The music depends on whether there’s a DJ, but the vibes are always good.
Red Garter Steakhouse (13) Monday night means pub quiz night! I used to love going here. It’s a steakhouse, which isn’t really my thing, but they do have a few vegetarian options available. Don’t miss the opportunity to grab the microphone and sing your favourite karaoke song 😀
I won’t give too much away, but if you love hidden bars, these two are a must. Rasputin (14) in Santo Spirito is all about atmosphere. Vanilla Club, (15) located in Santa Croce, is a secret gem that takes you back in time. I haven’t been there myself as the bar opened after I left, but I heard good stories about it and I’m very excited to go there next time going to Florence. It’s a bit of a mysterious place, you need to make sure to find clues to get in, text them on whatsapp and follow their rules.
Wine: Because This Is Tuscany
Florence is surrounded by some of the world’s best vineyards, so -in case you drink alcohol- pair your meal with a good glass of wine. Keep an eye out for a local Chianti Classico, Sangiovese or a Brunello di Montalcino.
For those living in Florence or those who are keen for a picnic: Winestore Bacco Nudo (16) (Enoteca e Vini Sfusi) sells good red wines. It’s a tiny and cute store with friendly owners. They have their own labels and will bottle the wines right in front of you. Prices are insane low (2-4 Euro per bottle).
Markets: Where Foodlovers Gather
Mercato Centrale (17) is a food lover’s dream. This market is packed with fresh, local ingredients and Tuscan specialties. You find everything from handmade pasta to cheeses and pastries. You can get a quick bite or shop goodies to take home, it’s a great place to find authentic Italian flavours.
Sant’Ambrogio Market (18) is a must go for food lovers. It’s a little less touristy than the Mercato Centrale, with incredible fresh produce, cheeses and local specialties. Walk through, taste something new, and maybe grab ingredients for a picnic. You can occasionally find ‘the Mozzarella man’ near the entrance, selling delicious fresh Mozzarella di Bufala from Napoli. They cost around 6 Euros per mozzarella ball, but each bite is worth it.
On a Budget
Pack your snacks and make your way to Piazza Michelangelo (19) for a picnic on the steps. While this location can get busy with tourists, street musicians, and artists, it gives stunning views of Florence’s skyline. You will recognize it as one of those iconic scenes often featured in magazines.
I hope my recommendations will help you to have an unforgettable experience in Florence! I would love to hear if you have been, what you ate and if you liked it! Feel free to share your experience in a DM on Instagram or in the comment section below.
Until next time,
